Hebrides: Islands on the Edge - Ewan McGregor
On the edge of the Atlantic, lies a world of rock and water. Wind scoured and rugged yet full of grace and beauty. Exposed to a restless ocean and Europe’s wildest weather the animals of these islands face challenge after challenge. For a year we’ll follow life in this magical but unpredictable place. Revealing secret lives and mysterious worlds, rarely seen and never filmed here before. Here, on Scotland’s Wild-West Coast, here in the Hebrides.
Like the twin walls of a fortress, the islands of the Hebrides stand as Europe’s final frontier against the Atlantic Ocean. Each island has its own special character, but those at the southern tip of the chain of the most contrasting of all.
Scottish Wildlife
The fertile whisky island of Islay, mountainous Jura and the gentle twin islands of Colonsay and Oronsay.
It’s early September in the Hebrides, and the wheel of the seasons is turning. Huge migratory basking sharks still feed on plankton close to the islands. But, soon they’ll move on. Only the toughest will survive what autumn is about to throw, at the Islands on the edge.
For young animals facing an independent life, it’s a testing time. On Islay there’s a restless mood amongst the swallows who’ve spent the summer in the whisky distilleries.
Newly Fledged Swallows
Newly fledged birds line up along the wires, ready to leave for their wintering grounds in Africa. But, deep inside the store, one last nest is still occupied. While the ancient art of whisky making goes on at its gentle pace, the adults rush to feed up their chicks. Swallows eat insects and the supply is already dwindling as the summer ends. If there is a sudden cold snap there’ll be no food at all and the chicks could starve, so they must get out of the nest and head south as soon as they can.
The weather is already unsettled and worse is on the way.
Elusive Otters
On the coast nearby, independence is also looming for a young otter. At one year old, this cub is still dependent on its mother, but he’s fully grown and like a stay-at-home teenager his welcome is wearing thin. Otter cubs may stay with their mother for up to 18 months sharing food and sleeping quarters. But, if the female comes into season, the youngster will be pushed out.
There is a stranger on the scene. It’s a mature dog otter with a distinctive kinked tail, boldly fishing in the family patch, he shows his full length as he swims to shore. He knows there is a female here, he can smell her. He’s searching for her everywhere. The cub has spotted the intruder, he’s terrified. Territorial males will try to kill cubs, so there is real danger for him. The cub can’t let him out of his sight. If his mother chooses to mate with the male, he’ll be completely on his own.
The female has joined the male and the pair swim off together. For a year this cub has relied upon his mother to guide him to food, help him shelter from storms and protect him from other otters. For the first time in his life he is alone and the most dangerous time of the year has arrived.
Weather changes fast here on the islands on the edge. Parts of the inner Hebrides get or 3 m of rain in a year. When it rains here, it really rains. These are dreadful conditions for young swallows. But, the nest is empty. They are safe, the chicks have fledged and moved into the wash-backroom, the place where the barley mash ferments into alcohol. The chicks are uncertain of their powers of flight. They are reluctant to leave the companionship of the family and constantly snuggle up to each other. Reassured by the close contact that always defined their world.
One chick is growing in confidence and encouraged by the calls of the adults makes tentative forays towards the sea. This is a very dangerous time. A mistake now could mean the end of a very short life. The other three huddle together, still missing the security of the nest. But, they must leave Islay soon or face certain starvation as the cold weather sweeps in. If they are lucky, they’ll return to the distillery in eight months to raise their own broods; a return trip of 12,000 miles.
Back in the store, casks of whisky sleep on, maturing for 10 generations of swallows before being declared ready. Each year, 2% of the spirit disappears through evaporation. It’s called the Angel’s share and just like a miniature angels, the swallows are gone, melting into the clear blue sky. They’ve made it out of the distillery just in time. The wind that sends them safely on their way is bringing change.
High above the three great mountains of Jura, the clouds are brewing. The first big autumn storm is here. In the Sound of Islay the waters pick up pace. Soon the racing tide will combine with the wind making the sea a force to be reckoned with. Even the lifeboat turns and starts heading for home. The weather is blowing straight in from the Atlantic. There’s nothing between Islay and America but 3,000 miles of wild sea.
Unless you are a yachtsman or fisherman, you don’t appreciate the tireless, often thankless, job the RNLI do to keep our seas safe for all who have need to use them.
At least young swans can follow their parents. But, the young otter is completely alone. To keep himself alive he must master fishing even in these wild conditions. Without his mother’s experience to guide him the decisions he makes now are critical. Many young otters die in their first winter. This is the supreme challenge. He’s passed his first big test.
It’s been a serious storm. The waves have pulped the seaweed and whisked it into foam. But, although the winds are dropping there’s more bad weather in store; for the Islands on the edge.
External Links
Hebrides, Islands on the Edge - Wikipedia Page
